I have a set of Mavic Crossmax wheels on the Eriksen; an XL on the front and an ST on the back. The rear Crossmax ST started dragging a little and started developing some play in the cassette. A little research pointed me to this MTBR thread and some great videos demonstrating the freehub service form RogueMechanic (Part 1, Part 2). Another useful resource (from the MTBR thread) are these Mavic reference guides.

I started off with the disassembly, and so far so good. All of the components were intact, didn’t look too dirty, and with the exception of the freehub, weren’t excessively worn. After a thorough cleaning things still looked good.

Fast forward a week and the arrival of a new freehub. Thanks to Competitive Cyclist I have a reasonably priced replacement freehub. The new freehub went on with out any difficulties and I was lucky enough to find this oil:

Mavic-branded mineral oil is very expensive, so you can save some cash if you can find this stuff. Anyway, the wheel is back together and the bearing free play is adjusted.  Overall, the service was fairly simple and required no specialty tools aside from the hub wrench Mavic includes with the wheels and standard issue bike tools like a chain whip and lockring tool.  Anyone who can install a cassette should be able to do this without too much difficulty.

During the downtime we had some snow and I had a nice winter ride on the singlespeed:

Earlier I gave my impressions of the ATC3K waterproof video camera. I recently built a custom mount to attach it to a bike, tested the mount as well as the camera’s waterproof claim.

The mount utilizes the rear disc tab on the UK-14er (I knew I had that tab added for some reason). The mount is very simple and consists of a piece of Lexan and some mounting hardware. The Lexan is 0.10″ thick and seems fairly rigid. An aluminum plate would make a more rigid mount, but it probably isn’t necessary with such a light camera. Anyway, the hardware is some cut 1/4-20 threaded rod, a few washers, nuts and wing nuts for easy adjustment and assembly. Bolts could and probably should replace the threaded rod and nuts, but I didn’t have any 1/4-20 bolts around and I wanted to make sure none of this hardware ended up in the spokes.

The camera is just out of range of my heel when clipped into the pedals. While this is good for the camera’s longevity, a constantly spinning pedal/foot in the middle of the frame is a little distracting. The mount does allow the camera to mount forward or backwards as well as tilt up and down so foot-free angles are an option.

As far as the waterproof testing goes, I tested the camera mount during the first snowfall we’ve had this year. I suppose I only tested the water resistance of the camera, but either way it didn’t seem to mind being covered in mud and snow. This is a pre-ride photo, but you get the idea.

Finally, a video from the new mount: